Night Scene of Hûe, Part I
The sun sets at 6:30 or so and it’s dark by 7 PM. That gives me time to dawdle over a bowl of phỏ – the
wonderful Vietnamese beef noodle soup. (Say “phuh.” That’s close enough for the locals to understand what you want.) I am totally convinced phỏ will be on the tables of heaven. One girl quickly dips some fresh bean sprouts in boiling water while another watches the rich broth poured into a bowl she will soon set in front of me. Properly nourished, I’m ready to walk.
(Be sure to click on the pictures – you’ll see a larger version.)
I love to wander the streets of Hûe at night. The people are outside because air conditioning has yet to keep everyone inside as happens in America. Internet cafés are everywhere (the cost of buying their
own computer is still too high for most people) and the cafés are not air conditioned. Some “specialize” in games, and are full of noisy boys like this one. Others have computers outfitted with web cams and all the IM services. All of them are packed in the early evening – and the Internet often slows to a crawl.
It’s more than just safe to walk around at night – it is friendly. People may wonder why you are taking pictures of their ordinary activities, but they consistently smile and wave. If I were a drinking man, I wouldn’t have had to buy my own beer the entire night. An evening meal with one’s buddies, washed down with some of the local brew while watching the world go by is a common sight on the streets. These guys really wanted me to sit down with them, but laughed in male understanding when I told them my wife was waiting for me.
A nearby market area still had some businesses open. Professional women who work in the daytime
are regular customers of this salon. Get a shampoo and a cut in the evening and be ready for the office the next morning. Again, the shop is not air conditioned, but on this night, there was a nice cool breeze coming in through the sliding glass front door.
The fruit stand next door was not busy. In fact, the bored clerk had little else to do but text message her friends while she waited for closing time. In the morning, the store will be teeming with women doing their daily shopping, but all is quiet for now.
To be continued.
Doug
Love your photos and your observations of everyday life in Viet Nam. I check your blog daily. How much for a gallon of regular?
Posted by:Kevin P | April 18, 2008 at 10:53 PM
In spite of the texting, life in Hue seems so relaxed. I long for my next visit when I can enjoy the smiles and warmness of the people.
Enjoy
Posted by:Tom | April 19, 2008 at 05:24 PM
Where everybody knows your name, and they're always glad you came. Cheers!
Posted by:Russ | April 20, 2008 at 12:07 PM